Game & Map Screenshots 11

Guardinthena

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Thank you for saying so! I made those actually, using photoshop and overlaying the FSM grass land on top of the roofs. Then using some transparency, adjusting the angle when needed, and the burn/sponge tool I was able to create the turf roofs seen in the screenshots. I am not completely satisfied with them. I need to define the edges of the roofs better as they tend to blend with the ground and that irks me. Once that's done I'd be satisfied.

I would also love to share some the edits I have made or will end up making with the community, but I am not sure the FSM allows edits of its resources to be shared. I will need to go ask about that.
 

The Stranger

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Those screenshots look amazing, @Guardinthena! Have you thought about adding some darker patches of earth to the mine floor? Looks a bit too uniform to me at the moment.
 

Guardinthena

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@The Stranger - I hadn't thought of that but it sounds like just what I needed! The mine looked off to me but I wasn't sure what to do. When I get the chance I'll go toy around with the darker earth patches.
 

Guardinthena

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I had an urge to fill in a gap with missing megalithic statues of an ancient empire, so I began sketching some figures out two days ago and did some coloring today. The first screenshot is an example of one such. I feel like it needs heavier shading for the outline to make it blend in with the FSM style better.

The second screenshot is my cavern system again, with some alternate floor covering to break up the monotony, per @The Stranger suggestion. I think it looks much better, but not sure about the moss patches around the water source...

handStone Ruin.PNGKuldahar Caverns.PNG
 

Finnuval

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@Guardinthena I love the hand statue but yes a stronger outline would definetly help.
As for the patches around the cave water I would try making them a bit more transparent to have them blend in more.

Other then that : Looking mighty fine :)
 

Kes

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@Guardinthena As well as transparency, I wonder if adjusting the hue a bit might help. It's a somewhat bright colour. The other thing is a problem with the fact that the autotiles by definition won't go in a natural way towards the water's edge; take the bottom right inverted T as an example. It might be a bit of a faff, and maybe you don't have any spare spaces on your B-E tile sheets, but having a few carefully constructed shapes which you could overlay on top of the autotile to bring the moss nearer the water would make a big visual difference.
 

Guardinthena

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Okay, because of @Frostorm's interest in my turf roofs, it got me off my lazy butt to fix up the sloppy editing and finalize them. So, the first screenshot is the major npc housing for my starting village. Touched up the roofs, cleaned the edges, fixed the roof on the side house, created the open roof window things, and edited the gondola boats in the FSM tilesets for roof decor for the side house.

All that aside, I think I need to replace the stone gardenpath with just the large stone paths seen leading up to the houses.

@superkoopa - Thank you for your advice! I don't know why I never considered looking for a pixelate function in Photoshop (the program I use). I located the tool, watched a quick video and pixelated the hand statue. It blends in much better, especially after I added darker shading. My only concern now is that when I zoom in too close it is much more pixelated than FSM o_O


Kuldahar Village.PNGMap050.png
 

Raith

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Guys, It's me again. I need your help.
I've been completing my new tilesets in the past few weeks.
But I'm still can't decide the building style I'll be using for the outdoor map.

So I created two experimental styles:

The "Style 1" has more compact size and better nature-to-buildings scale sense. It looks more dynamic and flexible, and has better aesthetics. However, to apply The Golden Ratio towards all building designs, most (well, technically all) of the buildings are forced to be symmetric. However, this style has much lower compatibility with several RPG Maker MV default mechanics. Plugins and modifications to the standard engine is required to make this map works well.
Map003.png

The "Style 2" is bigger, but more make sense for character-to-buildings scale - and this affects gameplay heavily. Due to its size, it is also fix the the "map size vs gameplay" problem in widescreen resolution. This style seems more rigid and boxy, but it is actually more simple and gives that "Pokemon RPG Style" feeling. The problem is, it is so big it takes the entire of Tileset D just for one building style with only four building variants.
Map021.png

Suggestion and opinion, please :)
 

Frostorm

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@Raith What tileset is that? It looks super clean. I think the style would depend on how tall your character sprite is. If its the tiny chibi size then I'd say Style 1, if it's a taller sprite, then Style 2.
 

The Stranger

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@Guardinthena Your mine looks a lot better now that the floor is a bit more varied. Just helps break things up, you know. The moss looks a bit weird due to how autotiles work. You could try playing around with shift mapping, or, if you really wanted, create some moss patches from small tufts of grass, clump them together, and place them around the water's edge. I don't know. Whatever makes sense to you.

The new hand monument is definitely an improvement over the original.
 

Guardinthena

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@Raith -I am loving that cute tileset! You custom made it, correct? Super cute!

As for your question, I think both styles look really nice. I do agree with Frostorm that it depends on the size of your sprites. But also, you do not have to waste valuable tileset space with large structures. The trick is to make those large buildings characters, you read that right. Figure out the correct dimensions and put it on a character sheesheet in your characters folder. Then, make the space the building will go on inaccessible so the player won't walk through the building weirdly. Like put down water or something, then the character that will house the building or whatever else you plan to so. And voila! No more problem with wasted tileset space, the building character is automatically capable so the player can walk behind the building if you want, and all is well.

So with that trick in mind, it really comes down to how you want your buildings to be now that tileset space isn't an issue.

@The Stranger -Thank you for the advice! Not sure if I am going to end up keeping the moss but I agree with your advice and Kes's, if I do end up keeping it (I know I will likely use the idea down the road for a wet cave, so I'll have to do something at some point) then the best approach would be to clump the moss/grass on a tileset for a more natural appearance and definately tone down the color.
 

Raith

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@Frostorm It is a fully custom-made tileset! I haven't published it anywhere except here. It made possible to do such style when RPG Maker started to embrace the 48x48 tile size.
The character sprites models are chibi. That's also why I need feedback: classic Pokemon RPGs use overworld chibi sprites plus Style 2 building size ratio, and it worked very well.

@Guardinthena Oh my god, what an unthinkable idea! Why it doesn't come to my mind before >.<. Thank you!
 

Kes

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@Raith I'm wondering if it would help if you approached this problem from a different angle. From what I can see from the screenshots, it would be easy to make the basic house and the flat roof as A3 autotiles. You could have a couple of variations there, one with the little veranda thing, one without. Then you could do your upper floor construction with shift+click mapping. Because they are autotiles you could stick whichever window you wanted onto them without having to have separate bases for each window style. That would leave just the sloping roofs to go on to B-E tiles. From my own experience of using sloping roofs, that would take up (usually) less than half a sheet.
 

Raith

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@Kes Already tried that, but sadly it didn't work very well. The A3 walls and roofs somehow functioned properly, but non A3 roof designs actually will end up bigger in B-E tiles. The final result using autotiles is Style 2, but with much more blocky appearance thanks to the deviance from Golden Ratio - which even shift-click or "mask tiles" won't help. What I learnt from using A3 autotiles is, it is good for interior and specific kinds of structures only (e.g Arabic style buildings, default basic houses, big castles, tall walls, gigantic boxy structures, etc), but don't try it if you need dynamic architecture diversity. That's why I in this case insist to use the whole house tileset instead of A3.
 

Kes

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@Raith I'm wondering how you did that. If you look at this post, in a different style to your own, it was done with a combination of A3 autotiles and slanted roofs on B-E. I'm not saying you should do it that way, but I think it can do more than you think at the moment.
 

Raith

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@Kes well, yeah, technically that what all mappers will do apart from artistic styles.

Let me share my experience that led me choosing the manual tileset method in dealing with architectures, which may helps others considering their technique in designing tileset-based buildings.

All started with this premise:
All sloped-roofed buildings are basically a fancy, decorated isosceles pentagon.
My goal is to avoid "undecorated 90-degree isosceles pentagon", a.k.a this:
Pentagon.png

Therefore, I need the Roof Edge.
Roof Edge.png


I'm trying to preserve the sloped roof edge (see next spoiler, the blue box), which will take just 8 pixels width of details (number of pixel is counted from the intersection of wall edge).

Because of that, come the logic of red box: notice how the wall edge must comply with the roof base.

Here come the autotile problem (see the last spoiler).
You can, of course, mask that wall autotile border with specially made tiles in B-E tileset to achieve the desired wall edge, but then I think like this: why even bother creating A3 autotiles when you only use them only to cover it again with manual tiles?

So this is the comparison (please forgive me for using placeholder for the autotiled wall):
HouseScreenshot.png
HouseScreenshot2.png

In summary, to produce same roofing edge style, that autotile wall is going to need 6 x 4 roof tiles compared to 4 x 4 roof tiles of its manual counterpart. Or you can keep the 4x4 roof but you will also need to create additional 2 tiles to mask the wall edge (4 if you plan to make two story building, 6 if more), plus the window tiles, which basically need roughly the same drawing effort compared to the manual one.

So, yaah, personally I don't want to spend that number of tiles just for that tiny amount of details in one sloped roof. So I'm giung for the manual one.

I think this is a crucial mapping technique since it dictates overall map image.
In the end, it all depends on the mapper's goal.




Dang I feel this is out of topic but I posted it anyway.
[EDIT: edited some typos]
 
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Frostorm

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@Raith I just noticed, is your tileset 24x24?
 

Raith

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@Frostorm Nope, it is the default 48x48. The technique is drawing it in 24x24 pixel tile, then save it in 200% enlargement using nearest neighbor interpolation. The 24x24 px is odd but just right, not too small like 16x16 and can be divided by 3 unlike 32x32
 

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